If your dryer is spinning but not heating up, you might be frustrated and confused about what is wrong with your appliance. Fortunately, there are some common causes and solutions for this problem that you can try at home. In this article, we will explain how to troubleshoot and fix a dryer that runs but never heats up.
1. Introduction: Understanding the Issue
A dryer that runs but never heats up is usually caused by one of three things: a faulty thermal fuse, a defective gas valve coil, or a broken heating element. These components are responsible for regulating the temperature and igniting the gas or electricity that heats up the air in the dryer. If any of them fails, the dryer will spin but not produce any heat.
2. Basic Troubleshooting Steps
Before you start taking apart your dryer, there are some basic steps you can take to narrow down the possible cause of the problem.
Checking the Model and Serial Number
The first thing you should do is check the model and serial number of your dryer. This will help you find the right parts and instructions for your specific appliance. You can usually find this information on a sticker inside the door or on the back of the dryer.
- Examining
the Door Switch
The door switch is a safety device that prevents the dryer from running when the door is open. If it is broken or loose, it might prevent the dryer from heating up even when it is closed. To test it, open and close the door while listening for a click sound. If you don’t hear anything, you might need to replace it.
Testing Automatic Sensors
Some dryers have automatic sensors that detect when clothes are dry and stop heating accordingly. If these sensors are dirty or malfunctioning, they might cause your dryer to run but not heat up properly. To test them, run a load of wet clothes on a timed cycle and see if they come out dry or damp. If they are still damp after 40 minutes or more, you might need to clean or replace them.
3. Advanced Troubleshooting Steps
If none of these basic steps solve your problem, you will need to remove some parts of your dryer and check them with a multimeter (a device that measures electrical resistance). Make sure you unplug your dryer before doing any of these steps.
• Removing The Drum
To access most of these components inside your dryer cabinet (the metal box around), you will need to remove its drum (the cylinder where clothes go). To do this:
– Locate and remove any screws holding down its top panel.
– Lift off its top panel carefully.
– Locate its front panel (the one with its door) and remove any screws holding it down.
– Disconnect any wires attached to its front panel carefully.
– Lift off its front panel carefully.
– Locate its belt (the rubber band around) under its drum and release it from its pulley (the wheel attached).
– Lift out its drum carefully.
• Checking The Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is a small metal device that cuts off power to prevent overheating if something goes wrong with your dryer’s airflow system. It is usually located on either side of its blower housing (the fan-like part) near its exhaust vent. To test it:
– Locate it using your model number as reference.
– Disconnect any wires attached to it carefully.
– Set your multimeter to continuity mode (the one that beeps when two points are connected).
– Touch one probe to each terminal on it.
– If it beeps continuously, then it’s good; if not then replace it.
• Inspecting The Operating Thermostat
The operating thermostat regulates how hot air gets inside by turning on/off power depending on temperature. It’s usually located near either side of its blower housing too. To test it:
– Locate using model number as reference.
– Disconnect wires attached carefully.
– Set multimeter continuity mode again.
– Touch probes each terminal again while holding hairdryer over thermostat until reaches 150°F/65°C approx.
– If beeps continuously then good; if not then replace.
• Testing The Flame Sensor
The flame sensor detects whether gas ignites properly by measuring heat level near burner assembly (where gas comes out). It’s usually located near front left corner inside cabinet. To test:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Disconnect wires attached carefully.
-Turn multimeter ohms mode
-Touch one probe to each terminal on it.
-If it shows any resistance (a number other than zero), then it’s good; if not then replace it.
• Examining The Thermal Cut-Off
The thermal cut-off is another safety device that shuts off power when the dryer overheats. It is usually located near its heating element (the coil-like part) on its back panel. To test it:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Disconnect wires attached carefully.
-Set multimeter continuity mode again.
-Touch probes each terminal again.
-If beeps continuously then good; if not then replace.
• Checking The Gas Valve Coils
The gas valve coils are electromagnets that open and close the gas valve depending on power supply. They are usually located near its burner assembly too. To test them:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Disconnect wires attached carefully.
-Turn multimeter ohms mode again.
-Touch one probe to each terminal on each coil separately.
-If shows any resistance then good; if not then replace them as a set.
• Testing The Igniter
The igniter is a ceramic device that glows hot and ignites the gas when power is supplied. It is usually located inside its burner assembly too. To test it:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Disconnect wires attached carefully.
-Turn multimeter ohms mode again.
-Touch one probe to each terminal on it again.
-If shows any resistance then good; if not then replace it.
• Inspecting The Drive Motor
The drive motor is the part that spins its drum and blower fan. If it malfunctions, it might cause your dryer to run but not heat up properly. To test it:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Reconnect wires attached carefully except for those connected to its door switch and thermal fuse (to prevent accidental start).
-Reconnect power cord carefully and turn on gas supply valve again (if applicable).
-Hold down door switch with one hand and turn drum manually with other hand until you feel motor start spinning.
-Release door switch and check if motor continues spinning by itself. If it does, then it’s good; if not then replace it.
• Checking The Timer
The timer is the part that controls the cycle and duration of your dryer’s operation. If it malfunctions, it might cause your dryer to run but not heat up properly. To test it:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Disconnect wires attached carefully.
-Turn multimeter ohms mode again.
-Touch one probe to each terminal on each timer contact separately.
-If shows any resistance then good; if not then replace it.
• Examining The Main Control Board
The main control board is the part that communicates with all other parts of your dryer and regulates its functions. If it malfunctions, it might cause your dryer to run but not heat up properly. To test it:
-Locate using model number as reference.
-Disconnect wires attached carefully.
-Look for any signs of damage such as burns, cracks or loose connections on the board.
-If any damage found then replace it; if not then use a multimeter to check for voltage at various points on the board according to its wiring diagram.
-If voltage readings are normal then good; if not then replace it.
This concludes the article on how to test a defective gas dryer flame sensor and other possible causes of a dryer not heating. I hope you found this helpful and informative.
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Marietta, Blackwells, Cumberland, Westoak, Sandy Plains, Noonday, Kennesaw, Macland, Smyrna, East Cobb, Powers Park, Clarkdale Park, Mars Hill, Lost Mountain, Acworth, Chattahoochee Plantation, Powder Springs, Fair Oaks, Vinings